IF YOU WANT TO ABSORB THE THRIVING,

enchanting presence of this ancient city while staying in a place that is decent, clean and moderately priced Casamara is a good choice. The unpretentious seven-storeyed building, opposite the Bank of Ceylon, is in the very center of the city.

Nearby is an old temple complex throbbing with Hindu and Buddhist devotees. Further up rises the magnificent white and chocolate façade of an early twentieth-century mosque. Just round the corner is the Temple of Tooth, the royal buildings surrounding it, the national museum, the promenade by the lake, the tourist information center, and several places for Kandyan dances in the evenings.

The simple lobby with its corner of greenery extends a homely welcome. The rooms have no balconies but the wide windows offer a gallery-view of the bustling city life. All the rooms have attached toilet and shower, air conditioners, TV, telephone and a minibar.

Ongoing refurbishment promises a tasteful and soothing décor. The cosy, air conditioned rooftop bar offers a good view of the city's low skyline. This can turn into conference room for about thirty people.

Want to pick up souvenirs? Walk along the footpaths amidst hawkers chanting incessantly and explore the big and small shops! The owners of the hotel run a jewellery shop where you can also see how gems are cut to a twinkling, sparkling shape.

Need to keep in touch with your world? The hotel can arrange email facilities or there is an internet cafe down the road and quite a few IDD telephone booths around. Want to have a dip? Just round the corner in Queen's hotel you can use their swimming pool for a small fee.

The hotel is very adaptable, you can pay for your room only and run on provisions from the nearby food supermarket. Most things are possible for this straightforward hotel in an excellent downtown location.