BESIDE THE 12TH-CENTURY GIRITALE TANK

this hotel offers a close view of the tranquil, deep waters dotted with green islands and eclipsed by the jungles and hills on the far off bank. The mediaeval capital of Polonnaruwa is only fifteen minutes drive from here, while all the rest of the heritage sites in Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle are within easy day-trip reach.

Even if your interests are historical only, you will enjoy the peace and quiet of the surroundings after a long day of sight seeing. During the dry season - end May to November - you may see elephants and deer coming for a drink on the opposite bank.

You can do some bird watching in the nearby jungles, go for a jeep safari to the Minneriya National Park, ride an elephant or rent a bicycle and tour through the villages. The hotel arranges these and can also organise sight-seeing tours. The staff are friendly and helpful, all speak English and most of them can manage some German, French or Italian.

On a hot and steamy day, you can remain in the air-conditioned haven of your room yet be able to see the lake through the glass windows. While all the upper-floor rooms have balconies, the terraces of the ground-floor rooms offer comfortable lounging space. If you are travelling with family and children you may prefer to be in the bigger family rooms. The suite and the deluxe room have TV and minibars stocked with soft drinks.

The food is good and the restaurant cool with air conditioning. Breakfast and dinner are served in a handsome tile-roofed open area beside the pool-deck. Sitting there you feel as if you're on the lake. The evenings are quiet, but if you are with a crowd and want some activity, the hotel has a discotheque and can arrange a wild night. Its adjoining sister hotel has a herbal center for massage, steam bath and sauna.